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Veterans return to Korea By Jenn Rowell
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In 1952, Charles Cleveland flew the skies over Seoul in his F-86 fighter jet. Destruction and death surrounded him.
When he went back this month, the retired lieutenant general found a confident and thriving South Korea.
Cleveland, now 79, and seven other fighter pilots -- astronaut Buzz Aldrin among them -- spent nine days in the Asian nation to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the Air Force.
"I wanted to see firsthand what the Korean populace, economy and culture looked like," said Cleveland, who lives in Montgomery. "What I remembered of the countryside in Korea and Seoul was destruction and death and to see it 55 years later, it was an astonishing difference."
The Korean War lasted three years, from 1950 to 1953, and ended with an armistice. Korea divided into the communist north and the democratic south.
Cleveland was only 24 when he spent nine months at Kimpo Air Base with the 4th Fighter Wing, 334th Fighter Interceptor Squadron. The former pilots passed the base on the drive from the airport at Inchon to the hotel in downtown Seoul.
"The only thing I recognized was the runway. It was all built up and changed," he said. "In 1952, there was nothing there but American fighters. It's a domestic airport now."
During his service in Korea, Cleveland brought down five MiG-15s. He had several close calls but never went down.
"You kinda did what you were trained to do," he said. "I can't say I was ever frightened. When your life is in danger, you do what you gotta do."
The group returned to Inchon on Sept. 15 for the 57th anniversary of Gen. Douglas MacArthur's famed amphibious assault behind enemy lines.
"That was great fun," Cleveland said.
The men also visited the Air Force contingent at the Yongsan military compound in Seoul and had lunch with South Korea's defense minister.
At Panmunjom in the demilitarized zone, Cleveland and the others could look across the line at "the tall, mean-looking North Korean soldiers standing there looking at us right in the eye."
"We could look with field glasses and see North Korea and know within those hills there were long-range artillery that could pour shells in Seoul," he said. "That was kind of a sobering thought."
At dinner each night, the Americans talked with their hosts about the war and current affairs.
"(The dinners) were all characterized by what seemed to me to be a totally sincere sense of gratitude for what the Americans did for their country in the 1950s," he said.
The Korean Veterans Association showed its appreciation by paying for the pilots' lodging, meals and ground transportation. The Air Force and Korean Airlines handled the flight costs.
Cleveland retired in 1984 after his last assignment as commander of Air University at Maxwell Air Force Base. These days, he is president of Alabama World Affairs Council, chairman of the SAYNO of Montgomery drug prevention program and volunteers for the Montgomery Area Food Bank, which he founded.
Still, all of his years of community service can't compare to his nine days back in Seoul.
"To see the Korean people being so successful and knowing that I played maybe the tiniest part in that, maybe like a grain of sand on a beach," he said. "The highlight of my retired life so far."